The ABTA Standards of Sartorial Excellence™ establish the highest level of craftsmanship and professionalism for bespoke tailoring in the United States. These standards are designed to ensure that the traditions and heritage of the craft are honored, the techniques and practices are respected, the integrity of the craft is preserved for generations, and each garment is crafted with precision, artistry, and respect for the individual client. By adhering to these standards, tailors uphold the timeless principles of bespoke tailoring while adapting to modern needs.
Our standards prioritize excellence in all aspects of bespoke tailoring, from the initial consultation to the final fitting. The following core principles guide every tailor’s work:
Direct Client Measurements: All garments must be based on precise measurements taken directly from the client to ensure a personalized fit.
Pattern Drafting: Patterns must be drafted using consistent, reliable method, ensuring proportional accuracy, balance, and consistency.
Precision Cutting: Cloth must be cut with care to ensure the garment’s drape, fit, and durability.
Hand-Stitching: Key areas of the garment as outlined below must be hand-stitched to provide strength, durability, and refined detailing.
Balance & Proportion: Garments must be balanced and harmonious, considering the client’s posture, build, and personal preferences.
Proper laying and cutting of cloth are essential to ensuring a precise fit and optimal use of materials:
Fabric must be laid on the double with the face of the cloth on the inside to protect it during the chalking process.
The layout should make the most economical use of the cloth while ensuring alignment with the grain.
When working with striped or plaid fabrics, key areas such as center back seam, sleeve back, back side seam, and pocket flaps must be matched for visual continuity.
For trousers, waistbands, center back seam, front fly areas, and inner pocket facings must be matched.
Inlays must be included in the layout to allow for future adjustments in fit.
Fittings are a critical part of the bespoke process, ensuring that the garment achieves a perfect fit and balance. At a minimum, at least two initial fittings and a final fitting should be conducted to ensure accuracy in adjustments. Tailors must follow these key steps:
Initial Fitting
Conduct the fitting with the garment in its basted form to allow for adjustments.
Assess all major and minor, horizontal and vertical balances for each garment.
Adjustments
Adjustments will be made based on the client’s posture, movement, and comfort.
Transfer all fitting corrections to the pattern to ensure future consistency.
Final Fitting
Confirm that all adjustments have been properly executed.
Ensure the garment achieves a clean silhouette with no pulling, gaping, or excessive ease.
Maintaining accurate records ensures that future garments can be made with consistency and precision.
Pattern Records: A copy of the client’s pattern must be kept on file, labeled with the client’s name and date.
Fitting Notes: Record detailed notes on each fitting, including photos or sketches where applicable.
Each bespoke garment must meet specific requirements to ensure both aesthetic appeal and functionality
Trousers
The waistband must include inlays of 3-4 inches at the side seams for future adjustments.
Buttons are sewn by hand using a cross-stitch technique to ensure durability.
Buttonholes are cut and sewn by hand for a refined finish.
The fly must be hand-stitched to ensure smooth functionality.
Trousers fronts are half-lined for comfort and durability.
The center back seam is hand-stitched for strength.
Pockets, band lining, and back curtain are sewn in by hand to maintain integrity and durability.
Coats
Must include inlays to allow adjustment to the main body seams.
The line will be fell stitched by hand.
Vents and front edges will be hand pick-stitched throughout.
Breast pocket will be slanted with a hand stitched border.
The top collar will be hand drawn-stitched onto the facing.
Front buttonholes will be hand stitched.
The left lapel buttonhole will be hand stitched and include a sewn flower loop.
Sleeve cuffs will feature an opening slit and hand stitched buttonholes.
The lining of the armhole will be eased and hand felled.
Front pockets will be hand topstitched on pocket and gorge.
Sleeves will be set in by hand.
Shoulder pads and canvas will be hand cut and shaped.
Jacket foreparts will be fully hand canvased.
These guidelines serve as the foundation of The ABTA Standards of Sartorial Excellence™, ensuring that each bespoke garment reflects the artistry, tradition, and professionalism expected of a master tailor. By adhering to these standards, tailors can deliver garments that provide both comfort and elegance while preserving the rich heritage of bespoke tailoring in the United States.
info@the-abta.com
